For many people the Punchbowl Pub at Low Row in Swaledale provides memories of one kind or another. The Gilders were very much in the singular form, a wallet was mysteriously found by a farmer in the middle of a field and the bus shelter in nearby Reeth became a welcome retreat. Sore heads in the morning after were very much a common feature of the group. Alas, after what appeared to be a successful pub the Punchbowl closed down and remained thus for several years. Fortunately, it was rescued by the good folk up at the CB Inn in Arkengarthdale. But more of that a bit later ...
Low Row Bunk Barn (West) has sometimes been described as a camping barn. However, it has facilities superior to one, but the cheapness of the booking may suggest it may not be as luxurious as some of the bunkbarns we have stayed at in the past. It has undergone a furbishment and consists of a dining area, fully equipped kitchen, drying room, toilets and showers. Heating is provided by the slot meter method. There are only two bedrooms (1 x 14 and 1 x 1 0), so the number of Shotlets and their servants will determine which room is most suitable for the non-afflicted. If there is excessive demand on bed space it may be possible to book the adjacent smaller LRBB (East) vhich has 12 beds (2x6) if it is still available. Swaledale, as many people know, is rather distinctive from all the other Yorkshire Dales. This is courtesy of the original Viking settlers and the lead mining activities of the 18th and 19th Centuries. It has a much wilder appearance, and despite its James Herriot connections fewer visitors and second home owners than the other dales. There is an extensive network of paths linking the villages and tracks leading up onto the fells. Arguably, the area around Keld and Muker is the most visually attractive part, but the scenery elsewhere will not disappoint. Then there is the chance to visit England’s highest pub - the Tan Hill Inn with perhaps even a visit for afternoon tea and cakes at the Kearton Guest House in Thwaite.
Low Row Bunk Barn has been incorrectly marked on the Yorkshire Dales (North and Central Areas) 1:25,000 Explorer Map by the Ordnance Survey! The little red square should be placed about 400 metres further east at GR 006983. Reaching Low Row is pretty straightforward. It is just south of the B6270 (which goes up Swaledale) about 2 miles west Reeth. Approaching from Reeth, drive through Healaugh and 1250 metres later after crossing one bridge and going alongside the River Swale (which you may not spot in the dark) turn sharp left at a T junction onto a minor road with the bridge across the Swale just beyond. This may be signed for Grinton, Low Whita or Askrigg. Immediately beyond the bridge turn right at the next junction and 200 metres further on the bunk barn will be found on the right. If the roads start to bend sharply uphill then you have missed it! People driving east down Swaledale will pass the Punchbowl (up a grassy hank on the left) before reaching the junction and river crossing point.
. . . so after some uncertainty the Punchbowl was bought and allowed to be sub-divided. The right hand side was converted into a private house and the left hand side into a rather good upmarket bistro pub. The food got the Egon Seeley rosette award. Although it is more of a dining place you can drink there, However, reservations may he required for Saturday evening. It will take about 30 mins to walk there from the bunk barn. The alternative drinking venues are a bit further away in the opposite direction in Reeth which has three pubs.
Aberllefenni may at first glance appear to he an inauspicious location, surrounded as it is by a blanket of evergreens. However one person will he satisfied at least, as even to an inexperienced eye there appear to be at least 3 inclined planes in the nearby disused slate quarries - the raison d’être for Aberliefenni’s existence. But before Howsey takes some of the blame for this choice it must be admitted that Nigel has been advocating a trip to Central Wales for some time. He has in his possession a guidebook on ‘100 Welsh Summits to do in a Lifetime’ or ‘Classic walks a Fridge or similar, and Donna is concerned that Nigel may no longer have youth on his side to tick ‘em off.
The best walking is found a short drive away on and around Cadair Idris which overlooks the superb Afon Mawddach Estuary to the north. The Lyn Cau Circuit from the Minffordd Hotel is a mini-gem. The Tarrens south of the Talyllyn Valley are somewhat squeezed in by trees but afford good views and just a few sheep for company. Likewise, escaping the trees north of the village a small group of surprisingly good hills can he reached which overlook the Cross Foxes Inn and Dinas Mawddy.
The narrow gauge Talyllyn Railway plies its trade from Abergynoiwyn to Towyn on the coast which has the best beaches, candy floss and kiss-me-quick hats. For an educational visit to see how far advanced the thinking behind the Centre for Alternative Technology was and how many of its ideas we now take for granted in this so called Green Age’, then this is the place to visit - less than a 5 mile drive away in our hybrid and electric cars. Or you may be tempted to visit the craft centre in Corris and the adjacent King Arthur’s Labyrinth of dubious provenance.
Bryn Coedwig has all the usual facilities including a large main dining room/lounge and smaller games room. Accommodation consists of 6 bedrooms ( l x 12, 3x6, 1 x3 and 1x2 beds. Duvets and pillows are provided so please bring a single sheet, pillow case and duvet cover or sleeping bag. The small play ground will be an ideal place to hold the ever popular SHOT bar-b-que on Saturday evening or alternatively at the riverside picnic area just 10 mins away. Both venues will allow the grownups to relive their youth and excel at ball games etc.
On the Cadair Idris Explorer Map (0L23) Bryn Coedwig is named as a Field Studies Centre GR 776 101. All approaches have to be made by the A487(T) Dolgellau-Machynlleth road leaving at the Braich Goch Inn/ Bunkhouse (not recommended) for Corris (Ahercorris) village. Immediately enter the village, cross a small bridge (ignore any signs for youth hostel) and continue north—east for 2 miles with the river on the right to the much smaller settlement of Aberllefenni. Go past the slate workshops on the right, then follow road around to the right with a small lake on the left. After about 400 yards the old village school will be seen on the left. This is Bryn Coedwig. If for any reason you find yourself driving uphill on a deteriorating road surrounded by millions of trees hiding goblins, werewolves and such like, then you have missed it. The nearest pub is the Slaters Arms in Corris.
NB The code for the push-button lock will be e-mailed prior to our visit.
Being part of the mainland and calling yourself an Isle would make an advertising guru salivate with the opportunities afforded, especially as much of Dorset already flies under the Welcome to Thomas 1-lardy Country banner. So when a better idea develops (possibly from a highly successful Stephen Spielberg film), then why not follow the flow and adopt and exploit it. The dramatic cliffs and beaches of Dorset now reside under the Jurassic Coast tag, and our base at Worth Matravers is ideally placed to explore the eastern section of it.
The Poole and Dorset Adventure Centre, more commonly known as the David Donald Field Studies Base is a converted Second World War Radar Base. It is located in a field west of the village and the first edition of the OS Purbeck Outdoor Leisure Map shows just that- a track into the middle of the field The Centre has all the usual facilities you would expect. There are 24 beds (2x2, 1x9 and 1x11) with a maximum 5 camping allowed outside.
Worth Matravers is a cul-de-sac village 3 miles west of Swanage. Enter the village, pass the Square and Compass pub, the church (set back on the right) and follow Renscombe Road (dead end sign?) past Weston Farm. Shortly afterwards the road bends sharp right and then 250 yards later you turn right onto the track into the middle of the field. If you reach Renscombe Farm at the road end you have missed it! The Grid Reference is 967777.
There is easy access direct from the Centre onto the Jurassic Coast - St. Aldhem’s Head, Durlston Head and Kimmeridge Bay. Further west lies the spectacular Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. However, between these two areas lies the Lulworth Firing Ranges which are closed at certain times of the year. They have six weekend closures one of which in 2010 was the 2nd weekend in March our visit is for the 3rd weekend.
Other attractions in the area include the deserted village of Tyneham and surroundings (borrowed by the Army during the Second World War and never given back), the seaside resort of Swanage, Corfe Castle, Swanage Steam Railway, the red squirrels on Brownsea Island, Harry Redknapps house and others on Sandbanks (Britain’s most expensive real estate), the Bovington Tank Museum, Lawrence of Arabia’s Grave at Moreton, and Monkey World where I am sure all Shotlets would like to come home with a souvenir apelet.
Custodians of Camras ‘Classic Country Pubs’ published in 1987 describes 100 of the best (out of the 70,000 that were then available). The Square and Compass one such being one of on nine nationwide that has appeared in every edition of the Good Beer Guide which is some accolade. It also won the 2008 National Cider Pub of the Year Award. All the beers are served direct from the barrel and the hand pressed traditional cider is made by the owner. Pub food is limited to hearty looking homemade pies and pasties however. This ancient pub has an unspoilt interior, its own fossil museum and has published a 150 page book (£ 7.50) describing its history. Certainly, it does sound like a special pub indeed.
Not only are we blessed with having such a fine pub on our doorstep, but three miles away at Corfe Castle there is a second entry with the Fox Inn. This is a 14th Century mid-terraced gem opposite the church also serving beer straight from the barrel via a servery. Every year on Shrove Tuesday the Company of Marblers and Stonecutters meet and regale themselves honoring a centuries-old Purbeck custom of presenting the Lord of the Manor with a pound of peppercorns. After the presentation they have to prove their sobriety by running across the road holding their pints without spilling a drop.
And to complete a hatrick of fine pubs (but not an entrant) the Bankes Arms in nearby Studland is a 200 year old pub owned by the National Trust. Not only that but it is home to the Isle of Purbeck Brewery. Sounds like a special visit needs to be made as well. There are also other pubs in Corfe Castle, Kingston and Langton Matravers. Hic!
Please send the usual £ 5 deposit to Gustav to secure a bed or two.
Andy is embarking on a mega 9 day bike ride from John o’ Groats to Land’s End arriving at his destination on Sunday 19th June. He will he camping, along with 500 others just outside Launceston, on Saturday 18th before the final big push on the A30 over Bodmin Moor and clown the length of Cornwall to Lands End where he is expecting/praying for Bernie to pick him up. It all seems rather alot of effort to tick off some obscure Little Chefs (Andy is a fan by the way), but when a man has got to do what a man has got to do then you can understand it. Having pedaled south into the sun for 9 days you would expect a healthy sun tan, a plethora of near-miss stories, detailed statistics of punctures per mile ratios, average speeds, head winds, Mars Bar consumption rates and energy exertion levels. If all this excites you then this 3 day trip could he just the thing. Be part of the car borne pursuers or just lend an ear or two for all the post-ride analysis. Hopefully, Neil will be able to supply Andy with a spare set of Postans for him to change into.
The South Dartmoor Bunkhouse is owned by the Devon Speleo Society. It is the former villa dairy which had a rebuild and restoration in the summer of 2005. It is a simple and clean bunkhouse with an open plan kitchen/dining/living area. Upstairs there are two bedrooms (1 x4, I x 12). There is also a large storage area for mountain hikes. Bring a sleeping bag. There is limited parking available outside the bunkhouse, because of the nature of the residential area, but ample at the top of Crest Hill. Bunkhouse is at 11 Crest Hill.
Detailed instructions and location map along with some useful links can be found on at www.southdartmoorbunkhouse.co.uk. Otherwise the instructions to SDB, 11 Crest Hill are as follows Enter Buckfastleigh at the A38/A384 junction, at mini roundabout, turn left, past garage on right. Pass 2 turns to Buckfastleigh, (first is No ENTRY). Continue for 500m taking next right into town, signposted Town Centre. Continue past car park on right. At the junction immediately ahead turn left (signed ‘Town Hall’), straight on is NO ENTRY. Pass the Town Hall on left and school on right, after 300m turn right at the ‘T’ junction into Crest Hill. The bunkhouse is approx 85m on the left.
For all those who are not extreme pedal-heads then Buckfastleigh is an ideal location to do less energetic things. It lies at the south-east corner of Dartmoor with the delights of the South Devon coastline nearby Torbay, the River Dart Estuary, Royal Naval College at Dartmouth, Start Point, Bolt Head, Salcombe Estuary, Burgh Island, numerous beaches, two steam railways (one to Totnes and the other to Kingswear), and several ferries. Dartmoor offers moorland walking, granite tors, ancient stone circles, tumuli, clapper bridges etc in abundance, isolated villages and pubs, ponies, an infamous prison and some excellent routes for car and bike alight. Remember to pay a visit to Buckfast Abbey and sample their tonic wine. One other place that could be worth visiting en route is Tuckers Maltings next to the railway near Newton Abbot Station. Apart from being one of the country’s largest it also has the Teignworthy Brewery and a very impressive beer shop.
Whether Andy will be able/willing to provide a video chary or SHOT Newsletter Report for those who cannot attend remains to be seen, hut if you feel inclined to experience just a small part of Andy’s agony and ecstasy, then please send the usual £5 deposit to Gustav. But bear in mind that people staying for three nights get preference. PS He may never be the same man afterwards!
Please send the usual £ 5 deposit to Gustav to secure a bed or two.
December 2011